my first London Fashion Week – day 3
Sunday, February the 20th started off at Jayne Pierson (lower left), a welsh designer who showed lots of hard-edged, black leather stuff riffing on 18th century styling. Unfortunately for Pierson, at this stage in the week I felt like I was seeing the same shapes, fabrications and references over and over, piled on top of one another in different combinations. There was one piece that I truly liked – a simple asymmetrical black leather shift with a zipper over one arm, and that was the one I drew – everything else just seemed like too much stuff.
What is with this rush to the middle of the pack when it comes to references? The next presentation I attended, Designers Remix (above left), featured the same type of rococo beehive hairdo, though at least the clothes themselves were modern in flavour. This designer used another technique I kept seeing over and over in London – cartridge pleating. Its an extremely archaic effect, and difficult to update – its a lot of fabric, its heavy, and it adds weight wherever it is used. Although Designers Remix managed to use it more effectively than most – just a little cartridge pleating goes a long way – every time I see it, I wonder, why even try?
(Side note: I almost forgot to mention a fashion week highlight from day 2 – I got a haircut from the Toni&Guy salon in the tent! The stylist, David, cleaned up my ragged edges and made me feel cute. It was the only bit of “swag” I got all week, and without a doubt one of the best fashion week treats I’ve ever received.)
Jazz Katze was the next show (above left), and although the styling was interesting, when the most memorable part of a show is the hair, that’s a shame. I can see Katze’s designs having a market, its cute stuff, maybe that market isn’t a fashion show audience.
The last show I saw was Fashion Mode – an organization that selects and incubates up and coming designers. The triptych of designers couldn’t have been more different from eachother. Florian Jayat (above center) showed quilted cocktail dresses, and the peaked shoulder detail that was definitely a trend throughout the week. Then there was a menswear designer who mostly showed variations on pagoda shoulders, I didn’t get a decent sketch. Carlotta Actis Barone (above right) created a suitable climax with dramatic, feminine gowns and fantastic hair and makeup to match.
That was it for me – after so many lineups I was all queued out. I didn’t have any push left in me, and I had work to do, so I hopped off the London Fashion Week bandwagon. It was a lot of fun, but ultimately I had the luxury of calling it off when I had enough – and considering that fashion week in London is such a too-much-is-never-enough affair, enough came sooner rather than later.